Citricos is one of many fine dining establishments located in Disney's Grand Floridian Resort; it's flagship hotel. It is on the second floor, next to Victoria and Albert's, but unlike it's neighbor, Citricos is kid-friendly. The Grand Floridian is just that; grand. There is a Victorian elegance embedded in every detail, from the white-washed woodwork, to the bird-cage elevator. It is a bit more on the formal side.
I recommend dressing up, though there are families scurrying about in park attire, I always feel more comfortable over-dressed, than under-dressed. This place can be a bit intimidating. And the little squirts look so cute all dressed up, anyway. Disney used to have a bit more strict dress code policy for their signature dining restaurants, but it's been so watered down that it barely exists. Americans love their jeans...
Citricos is a large restaurant with a beautiful show kitchen, adorned with Mediterranean-colored tiles throughout, and hand-painted terracotta-hued counters that evoke a storied ceramic Spanish casuela that's been cooked in for generations.
I do think their chairs and upholstery could use an update, as it is a bit 90's-esque. Just some simply colored chairs would bring the restaurant up to speed, while enhancing the beautiful views, instead of distracting from them. Now that I take a closer look at these chairs, maybe they are so ugly they are cool again, in this topsy-turvy hipster world of frumpy sweaters and busy prints. I do think the decor should better reflect the level of culinary skill being presented, and this decor certainly doesn't do the food justice.
We started with the Arancini and the Pork Belly over Grits to share. I must note, that a few years back, I had the best appetizer I've ever had anywhere, right here at Citricos. I still find myself daydreaming about it sometimes. It was the Crab Gateau, which was like a freer-form crabcake with huge lumps of crab meat, shaved fennel, tomatoes, swimming in a pool of citrus beurre blanc. It was so good, that I ordered two more on the spot! I've never done that before, or since, come to think of it. The waitress looked at me like I was crazy; I didn't even care. Because that's how good it was. Alas, they haven't had it on the menu in quite a while, which is disappointing. Hopefully they bring it back sometime. It should be their signature appetizer.
But the two appetizers we got on this recent visit were quite delicious in their own right. The Arancini, which are fried risotto balls, usually with some sort of cheese oozing out of the center. In this case, it was mascarpone stuffed into the center of the rice and deep-fried until deeply golden brown, so the outside is crusty and crispy, while the inside is creamy and flowing. It was sitting atop a puddle of bright tomato sauce.
But the Roasted Pork Belly over Cheese Grits was my favorite. The pork belly was so tender and unctuous, glazed in a sweet hibiscus barbecue sauce, And the cheese grits should just be offered as a side-dish, because I could have eaten a whole big bowl of those grits. They were so creamy, full of rich corn flavor, and just the right amount of cheese. I'm glad grits are finally getting the recognition they deserve in the fine dining echelon. I almost ordered another round of pork belly...
We also split a salad of mixed baby greens with poached egg, Pecorino, and Serrano ham crisps, which was really good too.
For our entrees, I chose the Roast Chicken over risotto, as I love juicy roast airlined chicken breasts, and as per usual, my husband ordered the Oak Grilled Beef Filet. My chicken was cooked beautifully, all the way through, but so juicy and flavorful. When chicken is cooked right, it tastes better than steak to me, but it's harder to cook perfectly. You've got a few degrees of wiggle room with steak, but with chicken it can go from under-cooked to over-cooked in a couple minutes. The skin was crisp and tasty, seasoned well. The risotto underneath was delicious and creamy, as were the little bursts of fresh peas that popped in my mouth, for a great contrast to the yielding textures of the chicken and risotto. The chicken jus that lined the plate was flavorful, though the chicken was so juicy it didn't necessarily need the jus. It was a nice flavor contrast to the richness of the risotto, though.
My husband really enjoyed the smoky flavor of the oak-grilled filet. It was incredibly tender, served over a bed of Yukon-smashed potatoes with a garnish of broccolini and red pepper strips. I would have enjoyed more broccolini and peppers, as a welcoming respite from the meatiness of steak and the heft of the potatoes, but it was still a nicely composed plate.
I am always stuffed after appetizers, salads, and entrees, but I still order dessert anyway. My philosophy on dessert is, we don't really eat dessert because we are hungry, we eat dessert because we want to indulge that impulsive id that resides in all of us. So, I can always make a little room for something sweet. I usually order the Warm Chocolate Banana Torte and a second dessert, just to try something new. We visited Citricos a couple times in a couple months, so I'm including the other two desserts we tried, though they were separate visits. We also tried the Florida Key Lime Pie, and the Zabaglione Over Mixed Berries.
The chocolate banana torte with ice cream and caramelized bananas is as delicious as it looks. The gorgeous chocolate scrolls hint at the rich chocolate flavor that lay in its shadow. They've had this on the menu for a long time, and with good reason; it's so satisfying, especially if you are a chocolate fanatic. I thought the berries in tuile cup with zabaglione were a nice contrast to the dense richness of the chocolate torte, though lacking in presentation, comparatively. But be advised, the zabaglione has a kick of Marsala wine in the background, that can take you by surprise. I thought the key lime pie was plated exquisitely, but it really lacked that punchy citrus flavor I was hoping for. The key lime element seemed muted, like it need more juice and possibly lime zest to amp up the profile. The Mandarin sorbet accompaniment was actually my favorite part of the plate.
Puny key lime flavored pies notwithstanding, Citricos is an elegant and enjoyable place for a Mediterranean-inspired dinner.
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